The End

Well, I'm back in Canada, safe and sound.  And with that my adventures in India come to a close - for now.

I really enjoyed posting to this blog. It helped me stay connected to home, and helped me remember monsoon of experiences I ha.  I'd like the thank everyone who took the time to come hear and read my rambles. The stat-counter says I received 1200 page views, which blows my mind. You guys rock! (I'd like to know who the 6 views from Russia was, though!)

So it's time to bring this journal to a end. See you all next time I get flung to some other corner of the world!

Dear India,

For the past seventeen days, I've made you my home. You have been nothing but hospitable. Never once did I feel unwelcome. You've opened me up to numerous new experiences, and shown me some of the most breathtaking sights of my life. A piece of you will always live in my heart.

India, you are now so much more than an area on the map and stories on the news. I see now an ancient country, that is paradoxally very young and growing. Like an uncut gem, you are rough around the edges. You are still a developing country, and are all that goes with that term. But the key word is developing. I see changes happening before my very eyes. I see infrastructure being put in place where there were none the week before. Questions about women's rights and euthanasia are littering the newspapers. Wages in manufacturing, IT, and everything in between are flying through the roof. Yes, you are quickly being polished into a glowing jewel. To be precise, 1.2 billion jewels. A force to be reckoned with.  The tools are all there - democracy, inter-cultural tolerance, spreading education. It's just a matter of time.

I now have the gnawing hunger to learn all there is to learn about you, India.  Perhaps this is a quixotic task for a landmass and culture that is more akin to Europe than a single country - and one that is constantly changing. But, to borrow a phrase, I'll give it my level best!

India, today we part ways. Even though I haven't quite left, I already miss you. I leave you in the care of the many friends made here.  I eagerly await the day I get a chance to return and explore the many, many treasures I've yet unearthed. I'm a different person than the one that left the airport in Ottawa what seems like eons ago. A better person, for sure.

Thank you.

Representin'

I was challenged to badminton today. Some of you may not be aware, but India is quite accomplished in the sport, having won the championship more than once, amongst other achievements.

So I felt the need to answer the bell and show what Canadians can do. I scraped my vague memories of high-school, which was the last time I had played, for any techniques I could muster.  It looked grim. It was grimmer still as got down 4, 5, 6 points in the race for 15. But something gelled and I stopped wiffing wildly at the birdie and started smashing them back with a gusto. It wasn't long before we were tied and soon I was walking off the court the winner!

But wait! There was another employee challenging my shuttlecock-authority. So I agree to take him on, this time with the sun in my eyes. Clearly I'm affected as I'm down 4-0 early. But again I battle back to take a narrow 15-13 win! CAN-A-DA! CAN-A-DA!


You are all welcome. :)

Wrong Again, India

These guys really don't get sports, do they? Us Canadians know THE Cup is the Cup that counts. To prove the superiority of hockey, I'll will point out that there is a cricket game on right now. And while the action was still under way, they panned to a bird that was on the field and discussed it for an inordinately long amount of time. This rather ordinary bird was more thrilling than the actual game. Case closed.

Disclaimer: I do quite enjoy watching cricket, particularly in a country that loves it. But it ain't no NHL>

The Elephant Show

So my travels finally landed me in Jaipur, where I was promised something I've been craving since I learned I'd be going to India - a ride on an elephant. Specifically, at Amber Fort where aneElephant would carry you up the steep hill to the courtyard

What I was not promised is the line-up! It stretched forever. My guide is subtly trying to talk me out of it. "Are you sure you want to wait? The line is over an hour long...and they only let the elephants go up and down so many times before closing the attraction down" Which, incidently, is a good rule to not overload the beasts with which I agree, but...WHERE'S MY ELEPHANT?

So I waited nervously for, what turned out to indeed be an hour. But before I knew it, I was being helped on to a caparisoned elephant. So cool!

Here my driver's review: Slow, noticeable swaying back-and-forth - be sure to stay balanced. Smelly. Seat belts not included on the standard model - use 'holding on for dear life' instead. AC included via sucking up water through the trunk (nose appendage, not storage compartment) and spraying it everywhere like rain. Excellent durability, expect your model to last over 50 years.

As for the ride, it lasted about 5 or 10 minutes, including an pachyderm traffic-jam at a participially narrow part. Enterprising cameramen lie in wait along the route to snap your photo while simultaneously negotiating rates for them with you. "Ali Baba! Ali Baba!", they'd call to me, using my standard nickname when people want to charm me into giving them money, '"500 rupees!" Which is a ridiculous price - over 20 bucks - I later got two pics for the real going rater of 50 rupees a piece.

I'd love to share the photos with you, but first need to locate a scanner. Until then, if you've ever wondered what it's like to pass a camel at 120kph, here you go. (We were going 120, not the camel...)

UPDATE: Elllllllephant!

I'm Lovin' It!

For all of you wondering what good old McDonald's is like in a country that almost entirely shuns eating beef, I did some hands on investigation this evening.

I present to you the Chicken Maharaja Mac. Two grilled chicken patties, curry-flavoured sauce, lettuce, onions, tomato all on the classic double bun. No pickles. Of course, the word pickle means something totally different in this country anyway! Regardless, it was delicious, in the McD's kind of way.

The fries were exactly the same :)

The Taj

This is a gem, people. You may have seen photos of the Taj Mahal, or seen it in Slumdog Millionaire. Doesn't compare. Especially at sunrise (or at a full moon, I imagine!) If you get any chance to see it, do so. And if you don't get a chance, make a chance.

Why do I like it? Well, for starters its a zillion tons of pure white marble. That is going to shimmer like nobody's business, regardless. But then it is so finely crafted, from the huge curves of the dome, to little fine flower carvings on the walls. And it's not just marble. You think the marble chunks are held together with black mortar. But then you get close and realize it's perfectly carved onyx. Everywhere. And then there are the semi-precious stone inlays. They look like they are painted on, but no, they are pain-stakingly arranged stones. Lapis luzali, mother of pearl, and even  stones that glow like fire under light. Fantastic. The reflecting pool is perfect too. It doubles the tajy goodness in a very serene way.

But there is also the love story behind its creation. It is your typical love-at-first sight  deal. She bore him fourteen kids, but alas giving birth to the last one cost her her life.  er dying wish was for him to take care of their children and to build a monument where she was buried. Well, he sure took that to heart. He bankrupted himself building what be the greatest monument to love ever. It reverberates. You can't help but think of the one you love while there. It is a happy place.

Now, how did he do on the other half of his wife's wish? Well...only fours sons and two daughters survived to adulthood. And one of those sons killed the other three and imprisoned Dad in the Agra Fort (I visited there too, not a bad place to be trapped.) He lived out his last eight years under house arrest while his son took power. Oops.

Still, Taj Mahal, he got that right. Go see it.

Un-delhi-vable!

So today I started my whirlwind tour of Northern India in earnest, beginning with Delhi itself. I decked myself out with a guide and driver and took off.

The first stop turned out to be my favourite - Qutab Minar. This fantastic and old tower stands 72m tall and is breathtakingly beautiful. I just loved it. And the surrounding grounds and building were just as stunning. Not to mention all the greenery. Since Delhi is the seat of government, they make sure that they pump enough water into the ground to keep the trees and grass nice all year round. Quite a change from dry Pune.

I have to check my itinerary just to remember the rest of the things I saw, but the Jamma Mosque (biggest mosque in Asia,) the Red Fort, the Government buildings and Humayum's tomb. All impressive in their own right.

I also got my first ride on cycle-rickshaw. This man-powered contraption propelled me through the crowded streets of Old Delhi. I grabbed a samosa on the through, and ate as we bumped and swerved through the streets. We also pulled a left turn across 4 lanes of busy, fast-moving traffic. My comfort level with Indian traffic was apparent as I chose to record a video of the turn instead of fearing for my life as a sane person would do.

Before I knew it, it was time to take the long road to Agra. Five hours later, and I am at yet another hotel, resting and recuperating for an early rise tomorrow. But I don't mind, because awaiting me is something I've wanted to see for a long time - the Taj Majal.

In Delhi..here are some pics!

Just arrived in Dehli, everything set up nicely for my tour. From the air, the city is an endless ocean of lights with dark islands where the slums are.

Some pics for you to enjoy. More later when I get a faster Internet connection.

https://picasaweb.google.com/100778036323538818276/BradenSPhotosInIndia

Café Coffee Time

Today is Mike's last day of work, and the day we part ways. I'm heading to Delhi for some sightseeing this evening, and he starts the long road home tomorrow. He's been good to travel with.

To commemorate our last day together as a team, we took everyone out to Mike's favourite place: Café Coffee Time. He claims they have the best coffee he's ever had (don't tell Tim Horton.)  So we all got our drinks, myself opting for an ice coffee considering the 33 degree heat. Snapped some photos of the crew. Mike bought a branded cup and saucer as a souvenir.

Then we were surprised by the presentation of gifts to us from the team. First, we both got little bronze statues - Mike got a cow-cart and I got Lord Shiv.  Then we opened up bags to find shiny kurtas, which I admit look very stylish. Kudos to smooth-talking Gajendra for prying our shirt-sizes out of me the day earlier with me being none the wiser!

We are thankful for all the gifts and all the hospitality shown to us by everyone here. I'll be back for a bit next week after my mini-holiday to the Golden Triangle region. Speaking of which, it is time for me to go catch my flight!

Minoj

In India, you do not simply rent a car - that is far too dangerous. You rent a car, which comes with a driver. For this trip, we've had the same driver every day named Minoj, who has been great at getting us where we need to go at our convenience. He is always cheerful, and glad to chat about the differences between India and Canada. As you may recall, he even served as a guide\translator for us at the chaotic Laxmi Road.

Little did we know how good we had it.

For whatever reason, he couldn't drive for us on Thursday, so his company sent us a replacement. This guy was very new, and didn't speak a word of English.  Nothing one could hold against him, for sure, but this turned out to be our undoing.

We were sailing merrily along to the office. I was reading the local newspaper, trying to get insight into what makes Pune tick, when Mike asks me, 'Don't we usually go right at this intersection? [instead of left, as we had.]  Now, my sense of direction is equivalent to that of a drunk earthworm, so I wasn't sure, but soon it was undeniable - we were lost.

Panic set in. Our driver had no clue where he was. We had no way of telling him he was lost. In a fit of good thinking, Mike called the receptionist at Wesley Clover and got her to translate into Hindi some directions. But the damage was done...we were way off track. We spent the next half an hour pulling over and asking everyone on the street if they knew the way to the neighbourhood. They all kindly gave directions, but to be honest, I think half of them were just making stuff up.  We drove in circles as our driver got more frustrated, calling people on his cell phone to bail him out.  At one point he is doing so as he pulled over to ask yet another person for help. A police officer. Out comes the ticket-book - driving and talking on a mobile is a no-no the officer kindly explained to us. Our driver attempts a bribe - standard practice - but it appears he gets the ticket regardless. Officer still took his money, and to his credit, gave us the correct directions.

As luck would have it, we were only five minutes from the office, although somehow we managed to go all the way around and came at it from the opposite side of the city.  Needless to say, we were very happy to see familiar ground and not a little late!

The driver clearly spent all day memorizing the way back to the hotel, and that night, we had no issue. But that didn't stop us for being very glad to see Minoj this morning. Never leave us again!

Tropical Itch

Ordered a drink today called the Tropical Itch. I'm pretty sure I paid good money to the travel clinic to prevent getting the Tropical Itch.  Tonight, I'm watching Canada play cricket at the sports bar. They are doing pretty good, considering.

Hockey Night in India

Yesterday we knocked off of work early and hopped in a couple of vans and headed towards Surya Shibir for a company picnic. After following the winding, potholed roads for what I've been assured was only 40 kilometers, but felt more like 4,000, we arrived to this estate filled with a million different things to do and play with.

We conquered an obstacle course,  crushed each other at ping-pong and badminton. We played childhood games like Kick the Can and Lagori. (Guess which culture is represented by each.)  I played my first game of Carrom, in which you flick disks around the board and try to sink them in pockets like pool. In theory - for me, it mostly involved missing wildly.

But the highlight for me is when we broke out the mini-sticks I brought for everyone and competed in the first ever game of mini-stick hockey on Indian soil. (I possibly just made that up, but it seems likely.) Regardless, they took to it with a gusto and there were bodies colliding and dust flying everywhere. The best part is when our Indian friends starting arguing amongst each other over who was offside, with much chirping from all parties.Of course, I had never explained the offside rules, but that certainly didn't stop them!

All in all, it was a great evening. Perhaps next time I'll teach 'em curling?

Sometimes You Just Need a Burger

After work, Mike and I braved downtown and the massive crowds of Laximi Road. Laximi is the place you go in Pune if you want to score a deal. Dozens upon dozens of shops serving hundreds and hundreds of pedestrians, cars, scooters, you name it.

As we walked down the street, dodging people all the way, the smell of the air would change every 30 feet. Tons of little stands selling all manner of food, both appetizing and not. As my stomach was already a little queasy from the change in diet, this did not help.

But we pressed on! Mike was on a quest to get some very nice authentic Indian wear, and found a top that actually fit his massive frame. But the pants were comically small. He couldn't even fit his calves through the thigh part of them. Not to be deterred, he arranged for some custom tailoring with translation help from our trust driver Minoj. We would have been so lost without his guidance.

We picked up a few more gifts for the folks back home, before calling it a night. All of this trip has been a bit overwhelming. Back at the hotel, our minds agreed - just too much India! We needed a taste of home, and found that our hotel would gladly serve us a burger and fries.  It was just what the doctor ordered. And pretty tasty for a culture who does not eat beef.

All in all, a successful day.